Friday, December 11, 2015

Flamingo Project - Part 2.5

This is Flamingo Project 2.5. We went to the opening weekend of our local faire, and after an hour of wearing the coat, if he didn't have an ice pack put down his shirt he would have died of heat stroke. We had to return the coat to the car, but he was still sweating in his black brocade vest. He asked if I could make him a new SLEEVELESS doublet. He wanted something light, that was still his traditional pink but wouldn't weigh him down like his 'couch' of a coat did. 

Pattern :  We did Simplicity 4059. I had since used it a couple times for different doublet projects.  We chose to do the long jacket version for this project. I believe was more of a Turkish style of dress. 

Pattern Sizing: 48 chest with 2" full abdomen adjustment.

What did you particularly liked about the pattern? 

 Removable sleeves!! This pattern offers not doing the sleeves. He needs something that gives the look of a jacket that doesn't have sleeves. 

What did I dislike about the pattern? 
I had trouble making sure the dots on the shoulder epaulet things matched the coat. It may have been due to a little shifting but I had a little trouble making sure they lined up correctly. Unlike other patterns I have used they are not a pure 50/50 balance over the shoulder seam, so you have to be careful to line them up properly with the dots. 

Fabric Used: The DH struck gold at the fabric store. They had on the clearance rack the last of a bolt of the original flamingo project fabric. He bought all of it.
Outer fabric: Carnation Pink light weight Linen
Lining: a Light weight silk Chein
Epaulets : Carnation Pink linen, lined with white cotton broad cloth.
Trim: Pink/Magenta/black/ pink 3/4" wide trim goes down the front edge.  Then Pink Marbou feather trim on the epaulet edges, and on the hem. This is to hark back to the original Flamingo outfit. Also we wanted to put the sparkly magenta and gold trim from the original flamino pants & cape.
Buttons: Originally he wanted Frog closures but later on he changed his mind to matching buttons to his pants buttons and button holes.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did a mild 2" Full abdomen adjustment. After it was assembled we realized that the design has a natural extra 1 inch gap that is part of the hoops for the front of the jacket. We went back and made a new front placket that is 3 inches wide instead of 1.5 inches.

Sewing Notes: It went together fairly easily. I just made sure any trim I wanted on it I sewed on BEFORE assembling. I just made sure to take seam allowances into account. This allows you to still have the trim, and be able to do adjustments later. 

At final fitting we discovered the CF gap issue. I had already added additional room for his full tummy, but the design was still made to have that 1 inch gap for the button loops. The DH didn't want that. I let the back out as much as I could. It would have been nicer if the 'skirt' on the doublet had side seams that matched the doublet. As it was, I could only let out the CB. It gave him an extra 1/2 inch but I could have given him another inch if the skirt had that extra side seam. To ease it a little more. I made the CF placket a little wider. That allowed me to close the front completly, and still have room for his buttons and button holes.

When I made this pattern again, I added the side seams to the skirt portion.  This made life much easier. 

Over all Comments: It is a good pattern for a nice doublet and I prefer it over the issues I had with it's predecessor. I would certainly make the DH nail down what he wants BEFORE I progress into the assembly stage. There are many design elements that you just can't do once assembly has started, or at least do them and it not appear as if you goofed up. 

 When we originally planned this item we had wanted a particular trim that we used on the original Flamingo project, a magenta & gold sparkly trim. Joann's discontinued it, however there were a couple places online to still get it. I took the advice of other seamstresses in my online sewing groups and went with jkm ribbon for the trim. I had terrible service from them. It took over 6 weeks for them to even SHIP the trim. As I needed the trim ASAP I ended up cannibalizing the trim from his old pair of pants, and matched the ends together. Unless you look carefully you won't know they are spliced, but it irks me to no end that I had to do that. Currently his new pants don't have trim on them because what I was going to use on them, had to be used on the doublet. I was very annoyed with them. Going forward I won't be ordering from them. I will recommend that when you do order trim for a project that you give yourself adequate time in case there are shipping issues.  

One last note,  as a special gift for the DH I got a special edition  fez for him, which since then he has started to wear with this outfit.  It is called the "Double Headed Party Chicken", aka two Flamingos on a black Fez.  Check it out here.  Since then I have bought him another Santa one, which he wears with his Santa Hat wearing Flamingo panel shirt.  Like always, that will be another post.

Next post will be on Phase 3 of the Flamingo Project.  We can't have one Flamingo look fabulous and the other drab, now can we?