|Jacket with out lining.|
The lapels required that you steam them, and no I do not mean pressing them flat. You use a steam iron to shock the wool, then using rolled up towels shape the fabric so it lays properly. You will need to leave then to dry at least over night. One of the cringe worthy things I saw was a prince Charles that someone had pressed the lapels and collar so flat they were like cardboard and had no drape what so ever. Makes me shutter now.
|Main coat with lining added.|
The lining is a silk satin which didn't fray as much as I thought it would. The lapel is silk taffata. The buttons are diamond shape pewter thistle buttons. I used tailor tacks to mark the button positions. Due to the wool , normal marking procedures do not work as well. Yes tailor tacks are old school, however when the old ways actually work, why not use them.
The final product turned out rather well, and like I said I had my nit picking things, but the client loved it. One quibble I have is that the buttons I got were a longer shank that expected. This caused them to lay over when sewn onto the coat. Either I need a different technique or just a different button supplier. I am not sure.
|Close up of the back pleat buttons|