Tuesday, January 3, 2017

What should we do with all this left over wool?

When we started the Prince Charles project we ordered precisely what the pattern told us to do. That being said, I laid out the jacket and vest for the client and found I had alot of fabric left over.  We decided that we would make another double breasted vest for the client and a double breasted vest for my husband.  However we wouldn't cut anything out until the Jacket and vest for Prince Charles was complete.  Soon as it was handed over the next thing out of his mouth was, " So can we cut out my new vest now?" 

We chose Butterick Pattern 6339 , Men's historical single and double breasted vests.  We did view C,  double breasted with lapel. The one alternation to the basic pattern I did, was make the two lower welts actual welted pockets.  Any seamstress will admit that welted pockets are a pain the backside but they do look nice.  The client and my husband both wanted the ability to have a pocket watch with chain. 

The client still had some of his silk satin left, and we used that for his lining and back of the vest.  For my husband I used a polyester lining.   Again I did my markings with tailor tacks.  I did use chalk for the darts. My husband's required an additional alteration to accommodate his 'bay window.'  The only draw back to doing this for him was that 3 months later his had lost 75% of the bay window so the vest now hangs funny.  While I am very proud of him for loosing the weight and getting healthy, my inner seamstress is cursing him profusely for messing up my work.  Oh well I'll have to make him a new one later. 

Notes about the construction were that because of the alterations I had to make for my husband the lines changed slightly for the welted pockets.  Anyone making this with similar alteration would need to take that into account. If someone is wanting to get into tailoring I would consider the pattern I used a great way to try it out.  The pattern has you do lapels, and welted pockets, both of which are used in larger tailoring projects.  A reminder I will throw out when doing these adjustments for double breasted items. Make sure the swing is added at the CF line, NOT the overlap edge. You want the additional space at the CF, not elsewhere which throws off your line. 
The one change I think I will make going forward is that I would cut the back out of the main fabric instead of the lining, as the pattern suggests.  That is because here in the southern United States many men don't wear a jacket except when the temperature drops below 40 degrees, which isn't often.  It isn't uncommon for a well dressed gentleman to wear a nice shirt, trousers (or kilt), tie, and a sharp vest.  Any more and they would melt!  By doing the back in the main fabric it gives it a bit more of a faux-suit feel, otherwise it looks like the guy forgot his suit jacket.  

I do not have photograph of my client but I do have my husband wearing it out to a special event.  The only visual difference between his and the clients is that my husband us shiny silver buttons, and the client had buffalo nickle buttons.  Otherwise a couple nice vests for two sharp gentlemen.